The fashion metrics industry is based on an enormous FALSEHOOD. Why? Because it’s too onerous to calculate the LCA of every garment, or brands think they can get away with it. You cannot PLUG IN AN INDEX for ease, that demonstrates utter ignorance about the way LCAs are calculated. Comment by Paul Foulkes-Arellano, Circularity Educator at Circuthon® Consulting.

Those of us working in packaging have rumbled this abominable misguided practice which runs right across the global apparel industry. These indices are about to be shattered, and those who use them completely discredited.

In the very simplest terms an LCA for a garment depends on:
1) Raw materials (e.g. polyester, linen, wool) + its Scope 3 emissions, plus all the dyes and finishes.
2) Energy – what’s the gridmix? Scottish renewable or Chinese coal?
3) Transport – airfreight, shipping, bicycle etc.
4) Packaging
5) Other associated emissions
6) THE NUMBER OF WEARS – the LCA figure drops with every single wear. Imagine the number of wears for winter gloves over many years.

Below is a graph to demonstrate reuse on LCA re. glass packaging developed by Reloop & Zero Waste Europe. The SAME principal applies to apparel.

If you are using indices instead of an LCA, but using LCA terminology, it’s deceit and illegal. In 2022 you will end up in court, a fund is being established to take legal action against the most notorious culprits.

The UK Green Claims Code specifically prohibits this kind of uncalculated claim. Be very careful about relying on one fake input to declare your “LCA”. If you cannot afford an individual peer-reviewed LCA, your claims are invalid.

You have been warned.