Royal Smit and Zoon subsidiary Nera Tanning has said it is in the process of is conducting “advanced studies” into effective ways of making suede split using its bio-based chemicals. By Leatherbiz.

Work it is carrying out focuses on making suede from Zeo White split, which uses the group’s chrome-free, heavy metal-free and aldehyde-free Zeology tanning system, which is based on the mineral zeolite.

Nera is also working on producing suede from lime split.

Its methods subject the splits to no finishing treatments that use polyurethanes, acrylic resins, waxes or pigments and, according to Smit & Zoon, this will guarantee total compostability at the end of life of the suede products.

“Suede has been used in fashion for decades,” the group said, “and many classic styles, such as suede jackets and boots, remain popular year after year.”

It added: “In 2025 the material is omnipresent in fashion. Suede is really having a moment. It all arguably started with Miu Miu’s 2024 Fall collection, in which Miuccia Prada sent reimagined suede jackets down the runway. Instantly catapulting the material into statement fabric status. Today (and tomorrow, most likely), suede is everywhere.”