In recent years, we have witnessed a surge in the development of leather alternatives for use in the fashion and automotive industries. Driven by so-called environmental concerns and a desire for sustainable materials, numerous startups have emerged, promising innovative solutions that mimic the look and feel of genuine leather. However, as these alternatives strive to make their mark, significant challenges have arisen, prompting a reevaluation of where investment and efforts might be most effectively directed.

One notable example is Natural Fiber Welding’s Mirum, a plant-based leather alternative that garnered attention for its eco-friendly approach. Despite initial enthusiasm, the company has recently faced substantial hurdles. Struggling to raise the necessary funds to scale production, Natural Fiber Welding has furloughed employees and seen the departure of its CEO. These developments highlight the difficulties that innovative startups encounter when attempting to bring new materials to market on a large scale.

Similarly, Bolt Threads’ Mylo, a leather alternative made from mycelium (the root structure of mushrooms), has halted production. Backed by prominent fashion brands and designers, Mylo was celebrated for its potential to revolutionise sustainable materials. However, the challenges of scaling production and managing costs proved insurmountable, leading to the cessation of its operations.

These cases underscore the complex realities of developing and commercialising new materials that can compete with the established leather industry.

These struggles raise a critical question: Are we overlooking the advancements within the traditional leather industry itself?

Bovine leather, used in automotive seating, has undergone substantial environmental improvements in recent years. According to the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI), its Global Warming Potential (GWP) has just been reduced by an impressive 60%. This significant reduction reflects the industry’s commitment to adopting more sustainable practices, from responsible sourcing to innovative processing techniques that minimise environmental impact.

The advancements in leather processing enhance sustainability and ensure that rawhides, a byproduct of the meat industry, are utilised effectively rather than contributing to landfill waste and methane emissions. The industry promotes a circular economy by transforming these rawhides into high-quality leather goods, maximising resource efficiency and minimising waste.

Considering these developments, it becomes apparent that substantial investments funnelled into developing new leather-like materials might yield further environmental benefits if redirected towards supporting and enhancing the sustainability of the existing leather industry. By investing in technologies and practices that further reduce the environmental footprint of leather production, we can leverage an already established industry that is actively progressing towards greater sustainability.

Moreover, supporting the leather industry ensures the preservation of skilled craftsmanship and the continuation of a material renowned for its durability, longevity, and aesthetic appeal. Genuine leather has a proven track record of performance, especially in demanding applications like automotive seating, where material integrity is paramount.

While innovation should always be encouraged, it’s essential to critically assess where our efforts and investments can make the most significant positive impact. The recent struggles of companies like Natural Fiber Welding and Bolt Threads highlight the challenges of bringing new materials to market at scale. By recognising and supporting the strides made within the leather industry, we can promote sustainability effectively. Redirecting investment towards enhancing genuine leather production capitalises on existing advancements and ensures that valuable resources, such as rawhides, are utilised responsibly, thereby reducing waste and promoting a more sustainable future.