Multi-stakeholder initiative Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) has said it recognises that the role suppliers play in driving fashion industry-wide environmental improvements is vital. By Leatherbiz.

It was responding to a new report from Transformers Foundation in. which the innovation platform has called for greater supplier inclusion in the multi-stakeholder initiatives that are working to make the fashion industry more sustainable.

The report says rules, governance and processes “often perpetuate supplier exclusion” and that the initiatives, though well-intentioned, often reinforce barriers that limit supplier participation, leading to what it calls “a cycle of distrust, disengagement, and ineffective sustainability strategies”.

ZDHC launched in 2011 to bring about the removal of hazardous chemicals from fashion products. It began to specify chemical formulations that it wants leather manufacturers to be aware of and avoid in 2015.

It has told World Leather that it shares Transformers Foundation’s commitment to “addressing barriers and fostering inclusive participation”. It said it had implemented “robust mechanisms” to make sure of active supplier participation in its own programme. It added that supplier insights “shape decision-making at every level”.

“We acknowledge the complexities of supplier engagement in multi-stakeholder programmes,” it continued. “Many suppliers face resource constraints and often look to their clients for direction. ZDHC is actively working to bridge this gap.”

This activity includes having regional teams that provide on-the-ground support in “key manufacturing countries”, addressing supplier needs and challenges. It said it has also put in place regular feedback mechanisms, including surveys and interviews, to refine its programmes and tools based on supplier input.